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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.